Welcome to my first blogger network post, this one for Adam Ross Fabrics [edit: since taking on their blogger network and writing this post they’re now functioning under the name of pound fabrics] – in return for this post I got the fabric for free to allow me to review it for you guys! Yeay free fabric.
**although I got the fabric In return for this review, all views are my own **
I chose their ‘eco’ cupro, in the colour tame teal. I was drawn to its potential eco credentials, and I’d never come across cupro, so I was intrigued!
Cupro is made from the cotton linter that attaches the white fluffy part of the plant used to make traditional cotton to the rest of the plant. It is generally regarded as a waste product, and as such it’s use reduces waste from the cotton industry. It is semi-man made in the same way as rayon is, requiring a chemical process to create fibres from the plant material, in this case copper and ammonia, but can be made as a closed loop, where the chemicals are retained for the next production cycle.
When it came it was heavier than I expected, definitely a mid weight fabric, but with plenty drape. It has a lovely texture as you can see from the photo above. The colour in that photo is pretty true to the fabric.
There was a slight defect in the fabric as you can see above, but it was on the wrong side of the fabric, so really wasn’t an issue, you definitely can’t see it on the right side of the fabric.
So onto the make! I plumbed for New Look 6723, a fit and flare dress with multiple bodice options. I originally planned to make view D, with the sweetheart neckline. More on that later…
I’d never made it before, and I struggle with big 4 sizing, so for once I actually made a toile (I didn’t want to ruin the donated fabric!)
I just toiled the bodice, and as you can see above I needed to take a huge chunk out of the upper centre back, it was super baggy, as necklines often are on me. I think this may be the way I’m choosing pattern sizes. Often my measurement fit into a single size, but the difference between my upper and full bust is about 3inches, so realistically I should size down the bodice and do an FBA. I tend to find, though, that the armscye of the bigger size often fits me better, so generally I make the size up and adjust the neckline instead. I’m sure there’s a better way to do it, but it works for me!
Once I was happy with the toile, I moved onto cutting out the fashion fabric – as you can see here it’s wide, so I managed to fit all the bodice pieces across the width, which I wasn’t expecting. Means I’ve got some left for another project, which is great!
Beware, it frays a lot.
This fabric didn’t mark very well with the markers I have (mostly chalk) so I made the effort to use tailors tacks.
Yup it frays. A lot! I overlocked all my pattern pieces before constructing the garment, really glad I did, it made a big difference.
So below is the first iteration – view D, with the sweetheart neckline and the gathered skirt. I should know by now that gathered skirts just aren’t my jam, the add extra width and volume just where I don’t need it. The bodice gaped in a way that I really didn’t like at the bust, revealing the lining (which is lovely, but not a design feature!)
I was pretty deflated. I’d put all that effort into making a toile, etc etc. but didn’t like the final outcome. So I popped it on my tailors dummy and left it to stew over night. In the morning I took to it with my pins, like below…
Taking out the extra and rounding out the neckline made it sit much better. To fix it, I needed to remove the skirt, turn it back inside out, and just adjust the stitch line to take out the extra. When putting the skirt back on I put the bodice back on the dummy and pinned the skirt on with pleats instead of gathers.
And I like it much better! Sorry the photos are a bit blurry, I tried to use my tripod, but next doors cat kept knocking it over or photobombing the photos, and I was being eaten alive by midges (summer in Scotland!) so I resorted to mirror selfies.
Have any of you made New Look 6723? Any thoughts on fit? And what do you think of cupro and closed loop fabrics? I’m definitely keen to sew with more environmentally fabrics going into the future.
Let me know your thoughts, I’d love to hear what you think.
Till next time